Page 38 - El-Placer-De-Volar-VersionDigital-Dic-2023

BUENA MESA

por Ileana Matos / fotografía

MARGARITA CHILI to preserve its characteristics. “We have
TASTE IDENTITY to take care of it, it is unique in the world
Green is used in the preparation of san- and we cannot allow what happened to the
cochos and, combined with yellow, it enri- sweet peppers of the mainland, which lost
ches the casseroles that fill the bollitos and their sweetness and are increasingly spicy.”
cakes, as hallaca is called in Margarita.
This combination of colors also gives ISABEL ALVA RETURNED TO
very good results in the preparation of jams EL ROCOTO
to accompany cheeses, says Esther Gonzá- Isabel Alba, chef of En Rocoto, her res-
lez -recognized Margarita chef awarded taurant located on Bolívar Avenue in Por-
with the Armando Scannone Award 2016 lamar, works with the catch of the day and
by the Venezuelan Academy of Gastronomy season the Peruvian cuisine classics on her
and owner of La Casa de Esther, a restau- menu -chupes, ceviches and tiraditos, for
rant located in front of the Plaza Bolivar in which she uses palometa, “which is such a
Pedro Gonzalez- who clarifies that, for the good fish”- with leche de tigre made with ají
sofrito, all are good. margariteño chili.
The chef uses it red and past - “when it Garnishes? Yes, prepared with vege-
takes on a red wine tone” - to make the jam tables, greens, fruits and aromatic herbs,
that crowns the white chocolate ice cream organic and grown on the island: radishes,
with parchita, the star dessert of her house. eggplants, zucchini flower, tomatoes and
“When it reaches this color, its seeds have arugula, among others.
the aroma of guava,” says González, who The chef, a lover of Margarita, is back
offers the stuffed chili with typical prepa- on the island after four years living in
rations of Margarita, in her Mixto de Ají: Lima, where the pandemic took her by sur-
stewed dogfish or chorizo, guayanés with prise, she assures that “I was far away but
cumin, lentils with curry and masala, eg- not absent” before commenting that she is
gplant with its sofrito and chicharronada back with news: She added mango and co-
with plantain topocho. conut to her ceviches and tiraditos, which
“Margarita consumes all the chili bell now offer tropical flavors, and incorpora-
pepper it produces; there is no dish in our ted to the list of dishes the roll stuffed with
recipe book that does not demand it, nor ceviche with creamy tiger’s milk; the causa
Margaritans who do not feel a real pride for with octopus and linguini with lomo salta-
it”, adds the cook, who gives seeds to diners do and huancaína sauce, which now share
interested in trying if its sowing progresses menu with octopus al olivo, aji de gallina,
in different lands, while reminding them anticuchos and suspiro limeño.
that “the salinity of the soil of Margarita “My cuisine is family, not a recipe”,
and its climate, hot during the day and cool adds the cook, who in addition to renewing
at night, are very important for it”, and fu- the menu of En Rocoto created, together
lly supports the efforts aimed at achieving with her children Giancarlo and Karen
the Controlled Designation of Origin. Mostacero, Rocoto Catering, to attend pri-
“We have to protect our chili, in order vate events.

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